Ottoman Cuisine
The
importance of culinary art for the Ottoman Sultans is evident to every visitor
of Topkapı Palace. The huge kitchens were housed in several buildings under
ten domes. By the l7th century some thirteen hundred kitchen staff were housed
in the Palace. Hundreds of cooks, specializing in different categories of dishes
such as soups, pilafs, kebabs, vegetables, fish, breads, pastries, candy and
helva, syrup and jams and beverages, fed as many as ten thousand people a day
and, in addition, sent trays of food to others in the city as a royal favor.
The importance of food has been also evident in the
structure of the Ottoman military elite, the Janissaries. The commanders of the
main divisions were known as the Soupmen, other high ranking officers were the
Chief Cook, Scullion, Baker, and Pancake Maker, though their function had little
to do with these titles. The huge cauldron used to make pilaf had a special
symbolic significance for the Janissaries, as the central focus of each
division. The kitchen was also the center of politics, for whenever the
Janissaries demanded a change in the Sultan's Cabinet, or the head of a grand
vizier, they would overturn their pilaf cauldron. "Overturning the
cauldron," is an expression still used today to indicate a rebellion in the
ranks.
It was in this environment that
hundreds of the Sultans' chefs, who dedicated their lives to their profession,
developed and perfected the dishes of the Turkish Cuisine, which was then
adopted by the kitchens of the provinces ranging from the Balkans to Southern
Russia, and reaching North Africa. Istanbul was the capital of the world and had
all the prestige, so that its ways were imitated. At the same time, it was
supported by an enormous organization and infrastructure, which enabled all the
treasures of the world to flow into it. The provinces of the vast Empire were
integrated by a system of trade routes with refreshing caravanserais for the
weary merchants and security forces. The Spice Road, the most important factor
in culinary history was under the full control of the Sultan. Only the best
ingredients were allowed to be traded under the strict standards established by
the courts.
Guilds
played an important role in development and sustenance of the Cuisine. These
included hunters, fishermen, cooks, kebab cooks, bakers, butchers, cheese makers
and yogurt merchants, pastry chefs, pickle makers, and sausage merchants. All of
the principal trades were believed to be sacred and each guild traced its
patronage to the Prophets and Saints. The guilds prevailed in pricing and
quality control. They displayed their products and talents in spectacular floats
driven through Istanbul streets during special occasions, such as the
circumcision festivities for the Crown Prince or religious holidays.
Following the example of the Palace,
all of the grand Ottoman houses boasted elaborate kitchens and competed in
preparing feasts for each other as well as the general public. In fact, in each
neighborhood, at least one household wouldopen its doors to anyone who happened
to stop by for dinner during the holy month of Ramadan, or during other festive
occasions. This is how the traditional Cuisine evolved and spread, even to the
most modest corners of the country
For those who travel engaged in culinary pursuits, the
Turkish Cuisine is a very, curious one. The variety of dishes that make up the
Cuisine, the ways they all come together in feast-like meals, and the evident
intricacy of each craft offer enough material for life-long study and enjoyment.
It is not easy to discern a basic element or a single dominant feature, like the
Italian "pasta" or the French "sauce". Whether in a humble
home, at a famous restaurant, or at a dinner in a Bey's mansion, familiar
patterns of this rich and diverse Cuisine are always present. It is a rare art,
which satisfies your senses while reconfirming the higher order of society;
community and culture.
A practical-minded child watching
Mother cook "cabbage dolma" on a lazy; gray winter day is bound to
wonder : "Who on earth discovered this peculiar combination of sautéed
rice, pine-nuts, currants, spices, herbs and all tightly wrapped in translucent
leaves of cabbage all exactly half an inch thick and stacked up on an oval
serving plate decorated with lemon wedges? How was it possible to transform this
humble vegetable to such heights of fashion and delicacy with so few additional
ingredients? And, how can such a yummy dish possibly also be good for one7"
The modern mind, in a moment of
contemplation, has similar thoughts upon entering a modest sweets shop in Turkey
where "baklava" is the generic cousin of a dozen or so sophisticated
sweet pastries with names like : twisted turban, sultan, saray (palace), lady's
navel, nightingale's nest... The same experience awaits you at a "muhallebi"
(pudding shop) with a dozen different types of milk puddings.
One can only conclude that the
evolution of this glorious Cuisine was not an accident. Similar to other grand
Cuisine of the world, it is a result of the combination of three key elements. A
nurturing environment is irreplaceable. Turkey is known for an abundance and
diversity of foodstuff due to its rich flora, fauna and regional
differentiation. And the legacy of an Imperial Kitchen is inescapable. Hundreds
of cooks specializing in different types of dishes, all eager to please the
royal palate, no doubt had their influence in perfecting the Cuisine as we known
it today The Palace Kitchen, supported by a complex social organization, a
vibrant urban life, specialization of labor, trade, and total control of the
Spice Road, reflected the culmination of wealth and the flourishing of culture
in the capital of a mighty Empire. And the influence of the longevity of social
organization should not be taken lightly either. The Turkish State of Anatolia
is a millenium old and so, naturally, is the Cuisine. Time is of the essence; as
Ibn'i Haldun wrote, "The religion of the King, in time, becomes that of the
People", which also holds for the King's food. This, the reign of the
Ottoman Dynasty during 600 years, and a seamless cultural transition into the
present day of modern Turkey led to the evolution of a grand Cuisine through
differentiation, refinement and perfection of dishes, as well as their sequence
and combination of the meals. 
It is quite rare when all three of the
above conditions are met, as they are in the French, the Chinese and the Turkish
Cuisine. The Turkish Cuisine has the extra privilege of being at the cross-roads
of the Far-East and the Mediterranean, which mirrors a long and complex history
of Turkish migration from the steppes of Central Asia (where they mingled with
the Chinese) to Europe (where they exerted influence all the way to Vienna). All
these unique characteristics and history have bestowed upon the Turkish Cuisine
a rich and varied n umber of dishes, which can be prepared and combined with
other dishes in meals of almost infinite variety, but always in a non-arbitrary
way This led to a Cuisine that is open to improvisation through development of
regional styles, while retaining its deep structure, as all great works of art
do. The Cuisine is also an integral aspect of culture. It is a part of the
rituals of everyday life events. It reflects spirituality, in for ms that are
specific to it, through symbolism and practice.
Anyone who visits Turkey or has a meal
in a Turkish home, regardless of the success of the particular cook, is sure to
notice how unique the Cuisine is. Our intention here is to help the uninitiated
to enjoy Turkish food by achieving a higher level of understanding of the
repertoire of dishes, related cultural practices and their spiritual meaning.